While writing my first draft of the restaurant review for Zooroona, I forgot that how sensitive the
word “authenticity” is. I get annoyed by the non-Asians who generalize all
Asian foods and put diverse Asian dishes in one group. I realized how it is
easy to unintentionally look down on “authentic foods” in particular cultures
and societies. Foods can be very subjective, but it is common these days to generalize
ethnic and cultural foods, putting them into stereotypical categorization due
to commercializing of them. Long’s Culinary
Tourism explains the definitions, conceptual framework, thoughts for
otherness, and negotiation of culinary tourism in a very logical way with
strong supporting examples. Long’s illustration of incorporation one cultural
food to another one because of marketing as cultural foods become commercialized
is fascinating. Long talks about Maruchan
Ramen that I have eaten before. Maruchan
Ramen was one of the most weirdest ramen noodles I have ever had because I
was so used to Korean instant noodle’s flavor. That noodle was like spaghetti
flavor with unpleasant texture of noodle.
I think that not only in U.S., but in anywhere
generalization of one culture is likely to happen. In Korea, Koreans tend to
generalize American food. Most of them assume that American foods are all about
burgers, fries, and coke, but these are not only American foods. When I went to
the McDonald in Korea, I had Shanghai Spicy Burger which is the
Korean version of American burger. That burger was spicy to fit in the
expectation of Koreans who often eat spicy foods.
The food industry and restaurants are likely to do that to
attract customers to eat their transformed cultural food. Long says that “It[Culinary
tourism] is about groups using food to ‘sell’ their histories and to construct
marketable and publicly attractive identities, and it is about individuals
satisfying curiosity” (20). This shows that there is possibility of restaurants
to get rid of some factors of cultural foods that are unattractive to American
customers which is called unpalatable. So on, “Tasting an Imagined Thailand” by
Molz also states about omitting other aspects of certain cultural food: “While
most Thai menus include typical dishes, such as Tom Yum soup and Pad Thai
noodles, other equally authentic dishes and preparation techniques may be
omitted with the customers’ preferences in mind” (57). However, these American
customers shouldn’t be criticized by not accepting extremely “authentic”
cultural dishes because they are used to their own cultural food.
Yet, it makes me unhappy whenever I see the wrong representation
of Korean cultural food in the Korean restaurants in U.S. because it’s
Americanized but it’s sold with the label saying “authentic Korean food”. At
least these Korean restaurants should stop advocating to Americans that their
foods are the best representation of real Korean food. There is no black and
white distinction of authentic foods; however, I think that if so called “authentic
cultural restaurants” portray one culture in a distorted way to make American
customers to be comfortable of what eat, it is wrong to sell these foods. MacCannell
claims in Molz’s “Tasting an Imagined Thailand” that “MacCannell says that the
true back region isn’t available to tourists, but that the travel industry,
understanding the modern tourist’s desire for authenticity, has created a
middle ground: staged authenticity” (55). It is so frustrating for me to see
some Korean restaurants have the Chinese dragon paintings and sculptors of Buddha
which are not exact Korean culture to give a sense of stereotypical “Asian-ness”
to American consumers who stereotype Asian culture.
It depends on the purposes of restaurants’ owners to operate
their cultural restaurants: either serving Americanized cultural foods to make
profits from American customers who don’t really know about its culture or
sincerely working on representing cultural foods while including accurate image
of its culture. There is no complete authenticity, but I hope producers of
cultural food restaurants regard cultural foods more seriously, and I also hope
American consumers of these restaurants are more open-minded about taste of
other cultural foods different from American food.
Suyeon,
ReplyDeleteI appreciate the fact that you brought this back to your own experience writing your review. Authenticity is a complicated subject, one it seems is even more simplex for you being in a foreign country having knowledge of what "authentic" korean food is. Thanks for sharing.